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The
Mostly UK Guide to Buying A Karmann Ghia |
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A
lot of people ask me which Ghia is good for me? and this
page outlines what my opinions of that are. They are just that though and
not everyone is going to agree. I've tried to angle this for people in the
UK, but a lot applies wherever you live. Get the very best you can
afford - it's cheaper in the long run.
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Which
Ghia is for you depends on your circumstances. If money really is no
object and you're looking for a second, 'occasional' car, then the early classic
50's
models are undoubtedly the most collectable and their prices reflect this.
However, if the car will be used daily or at least 3 or 4 times a week, then the
later cars with more powerful engines and greater creature comforts are
a better bet. The latter option is what I chose and I actually
prefer the looks of the later cars (though the wood-effect dash seemed to
be a slight regression). Whatever style you choose, remember to check for
corrosion thoroughly as even the last Ghias are now well over a quarter of
a century old. Time takes its toll, so accept nothing on face value. |
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Early
"lowlight" (pre 59) note rear optional 'spats'
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KG owners club is a really good place to start - they're at http://www.kgoc-gb.org/ you
can join online. It's a good place for info and advice, also carries some
cars for sale too. You don't have to get involved in any "anoraky"
stuff if you don't want to, they send a newsletter out bi-monthly and they
are the very best source of cars, parts and services such as insurance,
maintenance and general advice. I joined the club years before I found my
car! Be careful with "unfinished projects" whilst some are genuine, a lot
have unearthed major unforeseen expense and can take a lot of time if you
are intent on DIY |
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A
perfect early to mid-60s coupe |
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Whilst the
best bargains can be had in the private sales and ebay, the biggest risks lurk
there too. Take someone along who
knows what to look for (and wont fall head-over-heels with the first rusty
car they see). Bodywork is all-important, so get the very best you can afford
- a single front wing replacement can cost the best part of £1000! On the
plus side, mechanicals are pure VW Beetle, so everything is simple if you want to
learn (look for the "How to Keep your VW alive" book, by John Muir -
easier to read than the Haynes type manuals) - if you don't then there are lots of air-cooled VW specialists
around - Tip - avoid modern VW dealers, most would never have even seen a KG and
sadly know
little of air-cooled stuff. Instead use the list of specialists in the KGOC
GB's handbook and newsletters. |
| 69-71 -
Still classic styling but with more power and refinement. This one made to
'look early' with 2-tone paint. |
| There
are some KG dealers, notably "KG Motoworks" in Mansfield,
Notts ( www.karmann-ghia.co.uk
) which is run by Martin McGarry (who also is involved with the KG owners club) and his cars come highly
recommended. His current stock listings are on his site,
as are dozens of pics, so you can get to see what you really like etc - I
borrowed some of Martin's photos to illustrate on these pages. His cars
really do look superb and must rank amongst the finest available anywhere.
So, do you want a
coupe or a cabriolet...? - Again, a coupe may be best suited as a
daily-driver, as it is more secure, has slightly more rear room and has
better rear 3/4 visibility, than a cabrio with top up - something
more of a hindrance with left-hand drive cars in the UK. In general
though, LHD cars are fine in the UK. It's easier for Brits to drive LHD
because the gear-shifting is with the right hand. I've driven left-hookers
for years with no problems at all (except sometimes I still get in the wrong
side... with all the shopping... d'ohhh)
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72-74 -
Coupes seem to carry final changes better than cabrio's did - both still
look cool though.
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Typical prices for good cars needing
no work would be around £4-5k for a coupe, £8-10k for a cabriolet. Early
(pre 1960) are the most sought after and can be £1-2k more expensive -
later (1967+) cars have more powerful engines, come better equipped (with
things like a fuel gauge !). A1 cars add probably £2k onto those
prices too, but then you're entering show condition stuff. Cars needing
work can start anywhere really but I wouldn't spend any less than about £4k on a car (may have some
niggles, but shouldn't have major faults). All Volkswagens are incredibly
over-engineered and should be utterly reliable if maintained properly - if
someone tells you it's "character" that causes the car to start at the 5th
attempt, walk away! |
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My 1971
Cabriolet. Everything I ever wanted...
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The differing
styles of Karmann Ghias from 1955 to 1974
Proper Volkswagens don't
do "marks"
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Early,
"Lowlights" (because of the headlamp location being
lower down the front wings) have pure classic styling. Downsides are 6v
electrics, fairly puny engines and parts
that are most difficult to come by (almost impossible for some RHD). Expect to
pay anything up to $18000+ (£12+k) for pristine examples. Some
"original" cars are almost doubling that value
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The Original Ghia
- Headlamps 2" lower on early cars...
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...tiny rear lamps
and 6v electrics means difficulty seeing and being seen
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1960-1970,
Larger tail lights and regular improvements to the engine, which increased
to 1300cc's in 1966. In 1967 1500cc power and 12v electrics were introduced.
Daily drivers, start your search from
here.
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Raised
lamps, 12v electrics...
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...more power and
enlarged rear lamps
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1971-1972,
yet larger tail lights with most powerful 1600cc engine. More comfortable
interior and better spares availability.
Prices
more sensible and more of these style cars survived, but watch out for
bodge-jobs from unscrupulous folk
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1971 sees largest
engine at 1600cc's...
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...with
wrap-around indicators and a glass rear window (1970) |
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1972-1974,
"Fat Chick" Final changes included 14" tail lights and large, box-sectioned 'europa"
bumpers (only produced for 3 years). Interior all-black, sombre
affair.
Expect
$9-12k (£8-10k) for an immaculate cabrio (around half that for a coupe),
for the post-67 cars.
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Final "Fat Chick" Ghia with
large bumpers... |
...and huge tail
lights from '72 to '74.
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You'll
look at this more than any other part of your car (not to mention simply
sitting in it), so it pays to get it nice. Interiors, side-by-side - from
the left are; early 1960s, late 60's/early 70's and mid 70's examples |
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| Crisp
and clean styling, but this model isn't the earliest, as it has the luxury
of a fuel gauge. |
Better
no wood, than bad wood? - late '60s saw this interior style with more
comfort and more options, but that wood?? |
Final
changes were a typical mid '70s style, awash with black plastic. The most
comfortable and has the best ergonomics though. |
